Have you ever spent hours sewing a perfect garment, only to have it shrink two sizes after the first wash? Or hemmed a pair of trousers that ended up above your ankles after a trip through the dryer?
Fabric shrinkage is the most common nightmare for sewers, but it is entirely preventable. Understanding how different materials react to water and heat is the mark of a pro.
In this guide, we break down shrinkage rates by material and share the ultimate tips to keep your creations fitting perfectly.
1. Why Does Fabric Shrink?
Fabric is created under tension. During weaving or knitting, the yarns are pulled tight. When the fabric is exposed to water and heat (laundry), this tension is released, and the fibers attempt to return to their natural, relaxed state. This is called Relaxation Shrinkage.
2. Shrinkage Rates by Material (Cheat Sheet)
Not all fabrics shrink equally. Use this chart to plan your projects and yardage requirements.
| Material | Avg. Shrinkage | Key Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton | 3% - 5% | Thinner cottons (gauze) shrink more. Tip: Look for Bio-washed cotton for minimal shrinkage. |
| Linen | 5% - 10% | High Shrinkage. Drastically shrinks on the first wash. Pre-washing is mandatory. |
| Rayon / Viscose | 5% - 10%+ | Unstable when wet. Hand wash cold or dry clean recommended to maintain shape. |
| Polyester | < 3% | Resistant to shrinking, but sensitive to high heat (ironing/dryer). |
| Wool | Unpredictable | Can felt and shrink drastically with agitation and heat. Dry clean is safest. |
3. Woven vs. Knit: Structure Matters
- Wovens (Twill, Plain Weave): Generally more stable. They tend to shrink more in length (grainline) than in width.
- Knits (Jersey, French Terry): These are made of loops, making them more unstable. They can shrink significantly in length and may twist (torque) after washing. Avoid the dryer for knits unless you want a cropped look!
4. The Golden Rule: Pre-washing
The only way to guarantee your garment size is to Pre-shrink the fabric before you even pick up your scissors.
How to Pre-wash Properly:
- Unfold: Unfold your fabric yardage completely.
- Wash: Wash the fabric using the method you intend to use for the finished garment (e.g., Machine wash warm).
- Dry: If you plan to tumble dry your clothes, tumble dry the fabric now. This forces the shrinkage to happen before you sew.
- Iron: Steam iron to realign the grain before cutting.
5. How much extra fabric should I buy?
Since you are going to pre-shrink, you need to buy a little extra "insurance" yardage.
- For Cotton & Linen: Buy 10% more than the pattern calls for.
- For Bio-washed or Poly blends: You can usually buy the exact amount or 5% extra just to be safe.